Let me start out by admitting that I did not complete an epic road-trip to all of Utah's Big 5 National Parks. I tackled them in two separate trips, years a part at two very different paces. I will do my best to share how I'd approach them if I had a mulligan and the goal was to see all of them in one swoop. Also, I still haven't made it to Capitol Reef. Everything I read and YouTubed said you have to try the famous fruit pies made from the park's orchards, but those aren't available in November so we skipped it. Guess I'll just have to go back some day!
I have always visited in the fall. My visit to Zion and Bryce was in October over a four day weekend and my next week long trip in November included Arches, Canyonlands, several state parks, plus Monument Valley which is just across the border in Arizona. The fall was perfect. Spring would be wonderful. I would avoid these parks in June, July, and maybe early August due to the heat and crowds. If summer is your only option, expect extreme crowds and long entrance lines. Make sure you hydrate, the desert heat catches up with you. Anytime you're going to visit multiple parks in a year, invest in the America the Beautiful Pass for $80 that gives you access to every park in the system. Park entrance fees are about $35 or more a piece, so on this trip especially it's worth it.
Which park to start with? I would fly into Salt Lake City and drive the 3.5 hours to Moab. From here you'll be 9 minutes from Arches entrance and 39 minutes from Canyonlands. Moab has a plethora of restaurants and cute shops. We stayed at the Best Western Plus, which for mom and I was perfect. It included a solid continental breakfast open early enough for us to eat before heading into Arches for sunrise.
Here's your first BONUS! Only 37 minutes from Moab is Dead Horse Point State Park. At a $20 entrance fee it's a pretty high dollar state park, but it's worth it. We busted our butts to get there from SLC for sunset and it was magical. One of my all-time favorites.
Hiking in Arches is all pretty moderate. It was a great park to explore with my mom who has had hip replacements and is in her 70's. The most well-known hike to Delicate Arch mom decided to sit out. It's 3.2 miles round trip and includes some moderate incline. I felt like she made the right choice, but saw people doing it in inappropriate footwear and surviving, so it's probably good for most.
Canyonlands has three sections, however most, including me, only visit Island in the Sky. It is by far the most accessible and contains an abundance of overlooks and only a handful of hikes. After visiting I believe the best way to explore the canyons would be to do a Jeep tour on the White Rim Road or The Shafer Trail which both go below the rim and require 4WD high clearance vehicles. My favorite easy hike was to Mesa Arch at sunrise. Looking for a challenge? I'd try Lathrop, Upheaval Dome, or Gooseberry Trails.
Interested in seeing the other sections of the park? The Needles district is 1.5 hours south of Moab and home to the Chesler Park Viewpoint Trail, Confluence Overlook Trail, and the Slickrock Trail among a few others.
The Maze is the least accessible requiring a 4WD vehicle to get there. It is home to Horseshoe Canyon that has incredible history of early humans who hunted mastodons and mammoths and also left phenomenal pictographs.
From Canyonlands you have some choices, head west 2.2 hours to Capitol Reef and bonus number two, Hanksville. Or, head south towards bonus number 3, Goosenecks State Park and Monument Valley just over the state line in Arizona.
Assuming you head west, your next stops will complete the Big 5 with Bryce Canyon (2 hours southwest) and Zion National Parks. Should you go south, you'll add 4.5 hours to your total trip but also see Glen Canyon, Kanab, and Bears Ears National Monument before continuing to Bryce and Zion. You really can't go wrong either way, it just depends on how much time you have to finish your trip.
Let's choose heading west. Capitol Reef is wayyy out there and off the grid. You should also be sure to visit when there's no rain in the forecast because the flash flooding is a real concern. After a quick YouTube search, you'll also be convinced not to visit if rain is expected. This park is best visited with a 4x4 high clearance vehicle, and I'd recommend touring with Sleeping Rainbows Adventure Tours.
A must do is the Fruita Gifford Homestead for the fresh-made pies. Fruita is aptly named for its many orchards settled by Mormons. The pies are only available seasonally, from March 14th (Pi Day) to October. As far as hiking, the Hickman Bridge, Waterpocket Fold, and Cassidy Arch Trail are some top options. Navajo Knobs is a longer option at 9.1 miles and has been highly recommended on AllTrails. You should look to stay in Torrey, however accommodations are very limited so book early.
Ah, I almost forgot about Hanksville! As you head towards Capitol Reef from Canyonlands you'll encounter the Henry Mountains, Goblin Valley State Park, Moonscape Overlook, Factory Butte, Bentonite Hills, and Long Dong Silver. During our trip, mom and I spent one night at Whispering Sands Hotel and explored most of the area safely in our rented Subaru. You could easily drive through this town on your way to Capitol Reef and completely miss all of this, so be intentional if including it on your itinerary. We finished our trip in this area before heading back through Price en route to Salt Lake City.
Now, if your goal is to check Utah's Big 5 off the list, from Capitol Reef you'll head to Bryce Canyon. You can easily see enough of Bryce Canyon in one full day. I recommend the Navajo Loop to Queens Garden Trail which includes the now IG famous Wall Street. While the many overlooks are spectacular, getting out in the hoodoos is a must. The Fairyland Loop Trail at 7.9 miles is also an AllTrails favorite rated moderate, even with the distance. Bryce is also a Dark Sky park, so be sure to stick around for the ranger-led night sky program.
From Bryce, many would argue you've saved the best for last. Zion Canyon's walls are massive, the Narrows is Instagram famous, and you've probably heard of the cliffhanger hike that is Angel's Landing. Zion is POPULAR. With that comes crowds and the park controls that by not allowing private vehicles to drive into the canyon. You must take the shuttle or a vendor partner van to enter that area. You can hike or bike in also, but that is a loooonnnggg walk.
Here's how I'd make the most of Zion. Invest in an E-bike tour into the canyon. It's a paved trail along the river with beautiful views the whole way. If you're hiking The Narrows, rent the proper gear. You are hiking through a river. Sometimes the water gets up to your waist. Plus it's about 9 miles to "The Subway" a beautiful area carved by water for millions of years.
Let's address Angels Landing. I hiked it before you needed a permit. Now, if you don't have one you'll be turned away by a ranger right at the start of the chains section (the best part). You can apply for a permit months in advance or try to get in on the day-before lottery. Click here to learn how to tackle this.
If you don't get a permit, never fear! Hike the Observation Point Trail from the east side that will put you right above and behind Angels Landing for the same, if not better view without the treachery.
From Zion depart for Las Vegas to complete the trip. There are a number of fantastic state parks on your way there and if you've still got more time, go read my Las Vegas post for all the details!
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