I will never lead a group trip to a park I haven't visited. Big Bend was the perfect case study in why I made that rule for myself. In the student travel world we call visiting a destination first a Familiarization (FAM) trip. While I didn't go into this destination with that intention, I quickly realized this was another "hard to reach" park that is a hikers paradise that deserves a spot on your bucket list. Big Bend is home to 150 miles of trails and three distinct parts, the river, the desert, and the mountains. By the end of my three and a half day bender of 5am alarms for 7:15am sunrises to 6pm sunsets I learned a ton about how to tackle this magnificent park and maximize an itinerary built to experience the best of it.
Let's start with the logistics of getting down to the Big Bend of the Rio Grande River, the natural border between the U.S. and Mexico. The closest airport is in Midland/Odessa. As this is a regional airport the tickets are quite pricey, over $600, but it does save about an hour and fifteen minutes of driving. I flew in and out of El Paso, but if I made the trip again I'd be willing to spend more for the convenience of the airport. El Paso is roughly at 4.5 hour drive one way.
Along the way you'll pass through three small towns Van Horn, Marfa, and Alpine. Alpine is the seat of Brewster County and also home to Sul Ross State University. Marfa and Alpine are both equipped with a handful of restaurants making both decent pit stops to break up the journey. Eighty miles separates Alpine from Study Butte/Terlingua the closest towns to the national park entrance. That means 80 miles from a hospital and a fully stocked grocery store. Study Butte does have a small grocery called the Cottonwood that will supply the basics.
Terlingua, to the chagrin of many locals, has grown with Airbnbs and restaurants as Big Bend has grown in popularity. I think we can thank the pandemic and social media for that. As a visitor I was glad to have some above average dining options in such a desolate location.
The most famous establishment is the Starlight Theatre. I'm told by locals it's best to get there right when they open, or to go have a drink at The Boathouse and then get a table after the rush. There's a stage for live music and an assortment of margaritas on the menu.
Other culinary highlights include Long Draw Pizza (hole in the wall establishment that i thoroughly enjoyed), Venga (a posh spot well decorated with strong WiFi and unlimited coffee, plus solid eats), Espresso y Poco Mas (a breakfast must that opens at 7am - Mexican Breakfast Burrito or French Toast for the win).
There were two spots I didn't personally try but wanted to check out after local feedback. DB's Rustic Iron BBQ was closed during the early weekdays, so be sure to eat there Thursday-Sunday. Milky Way Treats is a dessert food truck walking distance from The Boathouse that looks amazing!
When it comes to accommodations there are no major hotel chains. It's either, book an in-park hotel a year in advance, get an Airbnb or private rental, or a small motel. If you're looking for a resort, Lajitas Golf Resort is available, but you'll have a two hour commute into the National Park or a ten minute drive into the State Park.
Here's a link to my Airbnb and a few places I passed that I felt comfortable recommending or staying at in the future.
Now that you know how to get there, where to stay, and what to eat...let's dive into the park and what you MUST DO while you're there.
Big Bend covers over 800,000 square miles. This translates to a lot of time in the car. I found myself struggling to time things with the long commutes and want to make sure you break the park into sections so you are able to make the most of your trip. I would suggest spending a minimum of 3 days in the park, but believe 4 or 5 would allow you to see all the things at a comfortable pace and possibly return to some of your favorites at different times of day to see them as the light changes.
SANTA ELENA CANYON & ROSS MAXWELL SCENIC DRIVE
This is a great place to start as the canyon is the most insta-famous location in the park. I went at sunrise as the mouth of the canyon faces northeast and I was hoping for the good light. There is a short 1.6 mile hike into the canyon along the Rio Grande before it narrows. There is a water crossing to reach the trail over Terlingua Creek. It is easy to miss, but keep walking to the right of the mouth to find the trail up the embankment. Depending on the time of year and recent rainfall will impact how deep the water is, it was only a few inches for me and my waterproof Altras handled it with ease. I loved this short hike as there's some brief elevation before you drop down to the water where it's so peaceful and quiet except for the bird songs.
Ross Maxwell Scenic drive is best lit at golden hour before sunset. It's impressive any time of day, but I returned for the pink Chisos Mountains and sunset from Sotol Vista Overlook. There are also a few moderate desert hikes along the route.
CHISOS MOUNTAINS
Of course this area of the park was my favorite because it's home to the hikes with elevation and big rewarding views! I completed two roughly 5 mile round trip hikes in half a day. Lost Mine Trail for sunrise and The Window Trail mid-day. Both are fantastic, with The Window being moderate and Lost Mine equipped with some fairly challenging switchbacks. It was VERY windy at the top of Lost Mine, which can be fairly common so be prepared and especially cautious with smaller children.
The two more difficult trails I will definitely return to hike are Emory Peak (9.8 miles) and the South Rim (12.4 miles). They can be combined into one long 15ish mile day hike that includes Pinnacles and Meadows trails, so all of the views in one swoop!
Noteworthy to your comfort, there is about a 20 degree swing in temperature from the canyons to the peaks of the Chisos Mountains. So come prepared with proper layers. During my visit it went from 60's to 40's up in the Chisos.
BOQUILLAS CANYON & HISTORIC HOT SPRINGS
All the way on the eastern side of the park lies another canyon, an entry point to Boquillas a small Mexican town, and a fabulous hot spring. To get there you'll pass the Panther Junction Visitor Center which has restrooms and the only gas station in the park.
Boquillas Canyon is a short and easy 1.4 mile hike. This a place to wear your water shoes and play in the Rio Grande! I could have spent 3-4 hours walking/swimming/relaxing here. Plus, you can walk across to Mexico, no passport needed.
From there head to the Historic Hot Spring. You will take a winding dirt road into the hills that finishes at a small paved parking area. A .5 mile walk to the springs is well worth it. The spring is quite popular and I was definitely not alone during my sunset visit. If you want solitude, earlier in the morning is probably best. It is located along the river, so you can switch from hot to cold as you please.
One thing in this area I would do on a return visit is the 14 mile hike that gives you views from the top of Boquillas Canyon. I'm also curious to remember my passport to pass into the small town of Boquillas to experience the culture.
As you can see this is a park with all kinds of nooks and crannies that you could return to again and again and still see something new. After my first visit I'm intrigued to venture on a Jeep Tour or a float trip along the Rio Grande. I also heard great things about the Balanced Rock Trail in the Grapevine Hills, but rangers recommended a high clearance vehicle to get there. There are just some risks not worth taking in your rented Nissan Altima!
Hopefully you're feeling inspired to make a visit to Big Bend National Park. I'm 100% looking into hosting a girls hiking trip here in spring of 2025, or maybe sooner if there's enough interest.
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